1. Plaça Nova--Set within the shadow of the cathedral, this is the largest open-air space in the Gothic Quarter and the usual site of the Barcelona flea market. Opening onto this square is the Portal del Bisbe, a gate flanked by two round towers that have survived from the ancient Roman wall that once stood here. From Plaça Nova, climb the incline of the narrow asphalt-covered street (Carrer del Bisbe) lying between these massive walls. On your right, notice the depth of the foundation, which indicates how much the city has risen since the wall was constructed.

At the approach of the first street, Carrer de Santa Llúcia, turn left, noticing the elegant simplicity of the corner building with its Romanesque facade, the:

2. Capilla de Santa Llúcia--The chapel's solidly graceful portal and barrel-vaulted interior were completed in 1268. It's open daily from 9am to 1:15pm and 4 to 6:45pm (tel. 93-315-15-54),.

Continue down Carrer de Santa Llúcia a few paces, noticing the:

3. Casa de L'Ardiaca (Archdeacon's House)--Constructed in the 15th century as a residence for Archdeacon Despla, the Gothic building has sculptural reliefs with Renaissance motifs. In its cloister-like courtyard are a fountain and a palm tree. Notice the mail slot, where five swallows and a turtle carved into stone await the arrival of important messages. Since 1919 this building has been home to the Museu d'Història de la Ciutat (City History Museum).

As you exit the Archdeacon's House, continue in the same direction several steps until you reach the:

4. Plaça de la Seu--From this square in front of the main entrance to the Catedral de Barcelona, you can stand and admire the facade of Mediterranean Gothic architecture. On each side of Plaça de la Seu, you can see the remains of Roman walls.

After touring the cathedral, exit from the door you entered and turn right onto Carrer dels Comtes, admiring the gargoyles along the way. After about 100 paces, you'll approach the:

5. Museu Frederic Marés--On the lower floors are Punic and Roman artifacts, but most of this museum on Plaça de Sant Iú is devoted to the works of this Catalán sculptor.

Exit through the same door you entered and continue your promenade in the same direction. You'll pass the portal of the cathedral's side, where the heads of two rather abstract angels flank the throne of a seated female saint. A few paces farther, notice the stone facade of the:

6. Arxiu de la Carona d'Aragó--This is the archives building of the crown of Aragón. Formerly called Palacio del Lugarteniente (Deputy's Palace), this Gothic building was the work of Antonio Carbonell. On some maps it also appears as the Palacio de los Virreyes (Palace of the Viceroys). The palace contains medieval and royal documents. Enter its courtyard, admiring the century-old grapevines. Then climb the 11 monumental steps to your left, facing a modern bronze sculpture by a Catalán artist. It represents, with a rather abstract dateline and map, the political history and imperial highlights of Catalonia.

As you exit from the courtyard, you'll find yourself back on Carrer dels Comtes. Continue in the same direction, turning left at the intersection of Baixada de Santa Clara. This street, in 1 short block, will bring you to one of the most famous squares of the Gothic Quarter:

7. Plaça del Rei--The Great Royal Palace, an enlarged building of what was originally the residence of the counts of Barcelona, stands at the bottom of this square. Here at the King's Square you can visit both the Palau Reial and the Museu d'Història de la Ciutat. On the right side of the square stands the Palatine Chapel of Santa Agata, a 14th-century Gothic temple that is part of the Palau Reial. In this chapel is preserved the altarpiece of the Lord High Constable, a 15th-century work by Jaume Huguet.

Retrace your steps up Baixada de Santa Clara, crossing Carrer dels Comtes, and continue straight to Carrer de la Pietat, which will skirt the semicircular, massively buttressed rear of the cathedral. With the buttresses of the cathedral's rear to your right, pass the 14th-century:

8. Casa del Canonge (House of the Canon)--This building, opening onto Carrer Arzobispo Irurita, was erected in the Gothic style and restored in 1929; escutcheons from the 15th and 16th centuries remain. Notice the heraldic symbols of medieval Barcelona on the building's stone plaques--twin towers supported by winged goats with lion's feet. On the same facade, also notice the depiction of twin angels. The building today is used as a women's training school, the Escola Professional per a la Doña.

Continue walking along Carrer de la Pietat, which makes a sudden sharp left. Notice the carved Pietà above the Gothic portal leading into the rear of the cathedral. Continue walking straight. One block later, turn left onto Carrer del Bisbe and continue downhill. Your path will lead you beneath one of the most charming bridges in Spain. Carved into lacy patterns of stonework, it connects the Casa del Canonge with Palau de la Generalitat.

Continue walking until Carrer del Bisbe opens into:

9. Plaça de Sant Jaume--In many ways, this plaza is the political heart of Catalán culture. Across this square, constructed at what was once a major junction for two Roman streets, race politicians and bureaucrats intent on Catalonian government affairs. On Sunday evenings you can witness the sardana, the national dance of Catalonia. Many bars and restaurants stand on side streets leading from this square.

Standing in the square, with your back to the street you just left (Carrer del Bisbe), you'll see, immediately on your right, the Doric portico of the Palau de la Generalitat, the parliament of Catalonia. Construction of this exquisite work, with its large courtyard and open-air stairway, along with twin arched galleries in the Catalonian Gothic style, began in the era of Jaume I. A special feature of the building is the Chapel of St. George, constructed in flamboyant Gothic style between 1432 and 1435 and enlarged in 1620 with the addition of vaulting and a cupola with hanging capitals. The back of the building encloses an orangery courtyard begun in 1532. In the Salón Dorado, the Proclamation of the Republic was signed. The palace bell tower houses a carillon on which both old and popular music is played each day at noon. Across the square are the Ionic columns of the Casa de la Ciutat/Ayuntamiento, the Town Hall of Barcelona.

With your back to Carrer del Bisbe, turn left onto the narrow and very ancient Carrer de la Llibretería. Two thousand years ago, this was one of the two roads that marked the Roman center of town. Walk uphill on Carrer de la Llibretería for about 1 1/2 blocks.

Take A Break--Mesón del Café, Llibretería 16 (tel. 93-315-07-54), founded in 1909, specializes in coffee and cappuccino. It is one of the oldest coffeehouses in the neighborhood, sometimes crowding 50 people into its tiny precincts. Some regulars perch on stools at the bar and order breakfast. Coffee costs .80€, and a cappuccino goes for 1.75€. The cafe is open Monday to Saturday from 7am to 9:30pm.

Retrace your steps along Carrer de la Llibretería and once again enter the Plaça de Sant Jaume. Facing the Town Hall, take the street that parallels its left side, Carrer de la Ciutat. Note the elegant stonework on the building's side, which is carved in a style radically different from the building's neoclassical facade. At the first left, turn onto Carrer d'Hercules, and walk along it for one block until you enter the quiet, somewhat faded beauty of:

10. Plaça de Sant Just--The square is dominated by the entrance to the Església dels Sants Just i Pastor. Above the entrance portal, an enthroned Virgin is flanked by a pair of protective angels. The Latin inscription hails her as Virgo Nigra et Pulchra, Nostra Patrona Pia (Black and Beautiful Virgin, Our Holy Patroness). This church dates from the 14th century, although work continued into the 16th. Some authorities claim that the church, in an earlier manifestation of the present structure, is the oldest in Barcelona. Visiting hours are erratic (tel. 93-301-73-33); you'll find that its doors are usually closed except during Sunday mass.

Opposite the facade of the church, at Plaça de Sant Just 4, is an aristocratic town house covered with faded but still elegant frescoes of angels cavorting among garlands, an example of the artistry, taste, and wealth of a bygone era. With your back to the Virgin, turn right onto the narrow, cobblestone street, Carrer del Lledo, which begins at the far end of the square. One short block later, turn left onto Baixada de Cassador. As you descend the steep slope of this narrow street, notice the blue-and-white covering of the House of the Blue Tiles at the bottom of the hill.

Turn left onto Carrer del Sots Tinent Navarro. The massive gray-stone wall rising on your left is the base of an ancient Roman fort. Note the red bricks of a 13th-century palace on top of the Roman wall. The solitary Corinthian column rising from the base is another reminder of Barcelona's Roman past.

Continue on to Plaça d'Emili Vilanova. Near the top of the Roman wall, note the pair of delicate columns of a Gothic window. Continue another block to the cross street, Carrer Jaume I. Cross it and approach Plaça de l'Angel. Continue walking to the:

11. Carrer de la Tapinería--For centuries, Catalonia has been the center of Spain's footwear industry. In medieval times, this was the street of the shoemakers. In fact, the industry is so entrenched that there is even a museum devoted to antique footwear, the Museu del Calçat Antic, Plaça Sant Felip Neri 5 (tel. 93-301-45-33), open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 2pm. Admission is 1.80€.

In 1 short block Carrer de la Tapinería leads to:

12. Plaça de Ramón Berenguer el Gran--An equestrian statue dedicated to this hero (1096-1131) is ringed with the gravel of a semicircular park, whose backdrop is formed by the walls of the ancient Roman fort and, nearby, a Gothic tower.

Traverse the park, crossing in front of the equestrian statue, until you once again reach the edge of the Roman wall as you head toward the park's distant end. Here Carrer de la Tapinería will lead you on a path paralleling the ancient:

13. Roman Walls--These are one of Barcelona's most important treasures from its past. The walls, known as Las Murallas in Spanish, were constructed between A.D. 270 and 310. The walls followed a rectangular course, and were built so that their fortified sections would face the sea. By the 11th and 12th centuries, Barcelona had long outgrown their confines. Jaume I ordered the opening of the Roman Walls, and the burgeoning growth that ensued virtually destroyed them, except for the foundations you see today.

Continue your promenade, but turn left at the narrow Baixada de la Canonja. A short walk down this cobblestone alleyway will return you to Plaça de la Seu, not far from where you began this tour.